Nuggets along the way


I thought I’d write a little update on this project that Matt Segal and I have been trying in the bugaboos.

We spent alot of time on it this summer, basically augered into Applebee campground for close to a month.  A tonne of days swinging around and trying to find a completely free line up the east face of Snowpatch spire.  I first eyed this line on my first trip to the bugaboos in 2008 with Chris Brazeau

This sort of freeclimbing is a trying game.  Its sorta like a little glimpse into what a guy like Tommy Caldwell is going through on a much, much, much harder and longer line like the Dawn Wall.  We’ve been dead-ended many times; chalked holds that led to nowhere, wasted skin on fruitless variations.

It’s all about the process.  Everyone always says it, but its a lesson I need to continually relearn along the way.  Its not so much about the ‘pot of gold’ at the conclusion of a project, but the little nuggets along the way.  When we finally found a series of crimps along the blank granite we were hooting and hollering  on our little mini-portaledge.

There’s a tonne of awesome routes to climb in the bugs, so its kinda funny how we’ve been bashing our heads against just one line for a whole summer.  But this is the one that’s captured our imaginations, and we really have no choice but to follow the path and see where it leads.

But infatuation has its perks- like finding a line of crimps, one by one, across a blank wall.  Almost eery, perfectly spaced apart, pretty damn close to the limit of our abilities- like some higher power was saying “push harder, and you can make this happen!”





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